We’re pretty lucky when Cape Breton Island and the start of the Cabot Trail is the backyard. Since deciding to tackle the Cabot Trail by bicycle this Autumn,  I’ve begun to venture further distances than usual, in preparation for the challenge.

Sunday Spinner

To my surprise, most of my chosen routes could be leisurely enjoyed by any traveler renting a bike from us. The beauty, events and sights of my own ‘backyard’ left me in awe, and tsk tsking myself that it took me so long to step beyond the ‘normal’ boundaries/routines of home.

Here’s the route I journeyed around the Iona Peninsula – that’s the strip of land you view from our front porch here at the guesthouse.

While having driven this route several times by car, there is something to be said about seeing the world from the seat of your bicycle. There’s more time to observe, to listen, to smell. You become sensually engaged in your environment.

To cycle the Iona Peninsula, cycle in the direction of Baddeck for 4 km before turning off at Exit 6 to Little Narrows. Ride aboard the cable ferry, “Caolas S’ilis”, which runs 24/7 and free for cyclists.
Then hang a right on the #223 after stopping at the MacKenzie’s  Country Store for water and any snacks you may need!

Little Narrows Cable Ferry - *picture from "marinas.com"*

MacKenzie's Country Store - Little Narrows

Follow the lake’s shoreline as you zip by some very cute cottages and the Little Narrows Beach, where you might want to stop for a picnic. While the view is amazing from Bear on the Lake, when you visit the opposite shoreline, you’ll get a real appreciation for those rolling mountains behind the guesthouse!

Bras d'Or Lakes Shoreline ~ Little Narrows

Try to spot Bear on the Lake Guesthouse from the opposite shore of the lake!

Changing landscapes around every corner!

September is the best time to cycle on Cape Breton. Less traffic on the main roads, sunny days with warm day temperatures but the slight crispness of the autumn in the air to keep you cool.

Mid September decked out with a touch of Autumn!

Even the ditches are beautiful in Cape Breton!

You’ll cycle past Portage Road – this road would take you towards Orangedale with the option of getting back on HWY # 104 outside Whycocomagh. This is a great ride if you have less time, but today we’re in for the long haul!

Everything was so quiet that sunny Sunday afternoon, just myself, gears clicking, crickets in the woods, and dragonflies racing alongside. There was rarely a vehicle, the only thing passing by was a huge hawk overhead!

*(Note to self -  keep camera in front pocket of backpack!!)

Old Railway Track

As you cycle along, you catch glimpses of the old rail line. If you have time, you may wish to drop in to the Orangedale Railway Station, which dates back to 1886! It’s a  great stop if you choose to take Portage Road cycle another day!)

Rail Line continues as you do!

There will be a few rolling hills to climb, but you won’t regret the effort when you are rewarded with views like these!!

View onto McKinnon's Harbour

Gorgeous views, charming villages you roll on through

What's not to love?

After passing through the tiny villages of  Ottawa Brook and Jamesville you will enter Iona, home of the Highland Village Museum where you’ll receive a “Fàilte gu Cridhe Gàidhealach Albainn Ùr” (Welcoming to the Highland Heart of Nova Scotia).

Gaelic Hertiage preservation

Here one can spend a day walking through this ‘living history’ museum, while gaining an appreciation for the Gaelic culture and traditions past and present on Cape Breton Island.

After exploring the charming Highland Village and try learning ‘Canan nan Gaidheal’ , { our Gaelic Language}. Try to fit your tongue around these Gaelic phrases… De tha dol? = What’s going on? . Tha i breagha an diugh, Tapadh leibh. = It’s lovely today, Thank you!
Continue on to towards Plaster Cove with gorgeous outcrops of the white rock jetting out in the blue waters.

Entering Plaster Cove

Perfect photo opportunities from MacCormack Picnic Park!
There is a little beach further up, just past Chantal’s Antiques store.

Stop here for a little rest & refuelling!

Get your legs ready! You’ll be going steadily up hill for the next few kilometers! But don’t worry – the downhills will be worth it!

HWY # 223

From the viewpoint at Maskells Harbour see if you ca spot Baddeck & the home of Alexander Graham Bell, Beinn Bhreagh, on the far shores!

Maskells Harbour

Sailing on the Bras D'Or Lakes

Almost home!

You should feel pretty proud as you head back to the cable ferry!
You’ve just completed part of the Bras d’Or Lakes Scenic Drive!

A Cape Breton Scenic Drive!

Sometimes the sweetest things in our travels, are the unexpected, unplanned and unexplainable…Some days, just breaking the normal routine can put you in a traveler’s frame of mind and see your own backyard from a new perspective.

xo  fr. Salt Mountain

]]> http://bearonthelake.com/blog/?feed=rss2&p=257 0 http://bearonthelake.com/blog/?p=237 http://bearonthelake.com/blog/?p=237#comments Fri, 16 Sep 2011 16:36:19 +0000 Kat http://bearonthelake.com/blog/?p=237 Continue reading →]]> Here at Bear on the Lake Guesthouse, our company vehicle is a CCM Mountain bike.
We believe going green is the way to a better future, a greener and better backpackers and sustainable tourism is the new fad. This is our small start in the right direction!

'Powered by Optimisim'

How is it possible to run a business on just two wheels? Quite easy, actually!

DISTANCE; Our village, Whycocomagh, is only a 5 km (10km return) trip. Why run a vehicle such a short distance when you can get some fresh air and cycle along the banks of the Bras d’Or Lakes?

The Lake!

AMENITIES; Whycocomagh has nearly all the amenities needed to supply and serve the guesthouse. The folks at the Home Hardware store set us up with any maintenance, paint, lumber and energy efficient light bulbs we may need.

Between the Co-Op and Pharmacy we can stock the shelves with the needed toilet paper, coffee, laundry soap etc.

The Royal Bank is there for our banking needs, with Canada Post office right next door.
That’s right! The Bear on the Lake / HI Cape Breton Island brochure you picked up at the Vancouver, Montreal or Toronto backpackers’ was brought by cycle to this post office!

Where your rack card started it's journey!

The Bayside Garden Center & Farmer’s Daughter are where we purchase our flowers you see in the gardens & baskets when you arrive at our doorstep.

Flowers to attract the hummingbirds!

BUYING LOCAL: By buying local, we help support our community’s economy, rather than spending at larger urban centers. Nova Scotia, mainly composed of small rural communities, is known for the charm of its small townships. That is often one of the draws for travelers who visit our province and our island. Many small villages have faded away as more and more people turn to purchasing in larger towns and cities. The loss of the ‘village charm’ would further if one continues to buy at box stores.

You will meet the friendly locals while shopping in town!

COST: Gas, car insurance, maitenance, it all adds up to a lot of $$$$ for a few kilometers over a few months. Without the expense of a vehicle, we are able to keep the price you pay for your accommodation lower!

Your Private Room!

ENVIRONMENTAL: Why burn extra gas, releasing unnecessary pollution into our atmosphere when the shops are only a short 10 km return trip? Burn Calories, Not Gas!

Keeping our Island Clean & Green!

NEIGHBOURS: They say all Martimers are friendly, but the people here in Whycocomagh have hearts of gold. You’ll discover this yourself even if you are not here long.
Our neighbours play a big role in making Bear on the Lake function as it does. They are the ones that help keep the gravel driveway grated & smooth, they are the ones that don’t mind a call late at night when an appliance has acted up as they sometimes do, they are the ones that help us take all the empty liquor bottles to the depot for a refund.

Here are a couple examples of how the neighbours helped make a difference this past Canada Day.
Our BBQ went kaput days before our national holiday for which we had scheduled a pot luck BBQ for the full house! Our neighbour who works at the Home Hardware was ever so kind to deliver the new grill when it arrived on order, the day before the big celebration. {Thanks Ian – you saved Canada Day! We still owe you that Guinness!!}

If we’re ever transporting  something a bit too bulky or awkward one of the cashiers  at the Co-Op, the post man behind us in line, or a local business owner will insist that we hand it over for them to drop off on their way through. (Mary Lee, Victor and Wilma! Thanks for helping us get the jumbo cake pan, BBQ ingredients and fireworks home!)

xo from Salt Mountain

Successful Canada Day Celebrations!

WHYCOCOMAGH – (Why-cog-ho-mah) , of Mi’kmaq origin, meaning ‘Head of the Waters’

Here are the reasons we love our community & we think you will too!

Did you know? …. Alexander Graham Bell (inventor of the telephone) is quoted to have said:  “Whycocomagh is the Rio de Janeiro of North America”

*photo from Wikipedia

Bell, was comparing the views of the bay, the rolling green mountains & islands floating in the St Patrick’s Channel, a body of Canada’s inland sea composing the Bras d’Or Lakes to the topography if the famous Brasilian city.

Having spent a fair share of time in Rio de Janeiro myself, this is agreed! The conclusions  Bell drew are evident that he saw Whycocomagh as a mini version of the  thriving metropolis of South America.

Whycocomagh Welcome

I see it to every time, cycling to town. The sparkling waters dancing at the head of the bay, the boats at anchor, the overlapping mountainous hills with homes drifting up the ascent. It doesn’t get much prettier than Whycocomagh on a sunny day or starry evening!

Whycocomagh Bay, St Patrick's Channel

However, Mr Bell puzzles us [locals], with his decision to reside in Baddeck rather than his little North American Rio. Our backpackers’ accommodation, Bear on the Lake sits on the outskirts of town, on its own little mountain. We think we’ve got the better deal, Mr Bell! 

Geographics aside,  Whycocomagh/We’koqma’q (pop. 1,500) is culturally significant in that it shares two distinct cultural backgrounds; one of Gaelic and of Mi’kmaq heritage.
There is something special about hearing those of Mi’kmaq background still using  the Mi’kmaq language at the local grocery store!

When you first arrive in town, notice the ‘Simpson’s House‘, with 71(+) figurines frolicking on a front yard. The owner/artist created the Simpson family as a graduation gift for her godson when he completed Law school. Stop in and say hello, and snap a pic with your favourite Springfield resident.

Ni'kmaq Basket Shop

Do drop in to the Ni’kmaq (Our Family) Basket Shop for some lovely hand crafted items. The delicate handmade dream catchers make great souvenirs/gifts!

Gaelic culture is alive and well on our side of the island too! Road signs are bilingual here on the South Western side of Cape Breton. At first glance you may think it is English/French – but look again! They’re in English & Gaelic! To help preserve this ‘endangered language’, students in Mabou, actually study the language!

No - You aren't in Scotland! This is Cape Breton!

Whycocomagh – or Hogama in Gaelic, is even featured in The Rankin Family’s famous ‘Mull River Shuffle’. Have a listen as you read on… Mull River Shufle … can you hear the reference?

There are four gas stations as you pass throughtown, and these will be the first ones you see once you leave the Canso Causeway! If you need cash, stop in at the Irving Garage and use the ATM machine or pick up some bonfire wood to make a camp fire once you are here. Rod’s One Stop is open the latest and has a small market inside, so if you’ve missed the Co-Op grocery store, this will be your best bet! There is also a small market in the Caper Gas station across the street from the CoOp, and the Esso is great to fill up at if collect Aeroplan points and there is a super mechanic there if your car is giving you any troubles!

Rod's One Stop

Caper Gas

Esso - Mechanic on Duty

Irving w/ ATM

You’ll likely be wanting to pick up a few items to grill on our BBQ or for a leisurely breakfast on the porch, and you can do so at the Co-Op Grocery Store. The ladies here are so friendly, and they’ll want to know all about where  you are from and where you have been! The liquor store NSLC is also found here for all your beer, wine, rum needs!

Groceries, Beer and Cookies!

Store Hours :
Monday – Saturday             8am-8pm
Sundays                                12pm-5pm

The friendly cashiers will make you feel right at home!

Be sure to pick up a fresh loaf of
Porridge Bread from Helen’s Bakery, and a fresh out of the oven, sweet treat!

If you would rather roll out of bed and have breakfast made for you – we suggest strolling down to the Bayside Cafe! They offer a scrumptious $4 breakfast. Be on the watch for the hummingbirds that zip around the garden center attached to the cafe. Then at night, return for Charlene’s Seafood Chowder – so famous it was even featured in our national airline ‘s (AirCanada) in-flight magazine ‘enRoute’!

Every Friday afternoon as well from 3pm-7pm they hold a Farmer’s Market here, so drop on in and really feel like a local buy buying and eating like one!

The Bayside!

Whycocomagh also features a lovely year round Farmer’s Market, “Farmer’s Daughter”.

The Farmer's Daughter - a MUST stop!

We recommend that everyone pop in to check out this lovely famil run operation! Fresh fudge that you can sample, homemade gelato, fresh fruit & veggies right off the farm! Baked goodies, homemade breads, crafts and a year round Christmas section!
There is a play ground for the kiddies, and the decor inside is fun and ‘down home’. The staff are always cheerful, and chat to you as they prepare your lunch sandwich and soup!

While staying at Bear on the Lake, we suggest everyone start their day off with a sunrise hike up Salt Mountain in the Whycocomagh Provincial Park and then a delicious coffee & muffin from the Farmer’s Daughter! YUM!
While staying with us a Bear on the Lake, be sure to hike in this gorgeous park. The views are unbelievable, and perfect spots for a picnic or to relax with a book! You will be glad you climbed to the top! Don;t forget your camera, good hiking footwear and water!

Great Hiking to Amazing Vistas!

Sunrise from Salt Mountian - Whycocomagh Prov Park

Vi’s Restaurant is another option from brekkie in town, especially if you are up early – they open at 630 am! This is a fun spot that still holds a polished 1960′s/70′s diner feel. If you are arriving by Acadian bus to Whycocomagh, this is where you will hop off.

Vi's Restaurant & Bus Top

Hiking Salt Mountain is not to be missed! And after, cycle down to the head of the bay and have a picnic! The post office is just down from here, so why not send someone u love a little Cape Breton Island post card and tell them what they are missing! :p

Picnic by the Bay

Ever wonder where all those Bear on the Lake rack cards were mailed from?

If you need to pick up a travel read for the hammock, or something to pass the time before you fly out, drop into our used bookstore “Chasing Tales”. You’ll find it tucked in behind Vi’s and the Farmer’s Daughter. There is quite the selection here and you may be surprised at what you will find!

"Chasing Tales" used bookstore

If your locks are in need of a trim, why not step into our barber shop – with the best rates in all of Nova Scotia!  Ladies – the Barbarettes (yes, two female barbers run the show here!) will give you a new do for $14, and for the gents – only $12!

Our barber shop = 100+ years old!

The Royal Bank of Canada  is next door to the Barber Shop for all your banking needs, the ladies will be happy to help you with any international transfers you might need!

RBC bank

And last but not least on ‘Main Street’ you will find the Fireworks Iron House – yes – a REAL blacksmith! They offer workshops where you get to forge & hammer our own craft!
Whether you are attending a 2 day or week long workshop, contact us for great rates!
For more information, visit Iron House Fireworks.

Whether it is the hiking, the food, the villagers or the view, Whycocomagh is sure to leave a lasting impression on you! Hope you’ve enjoyed this ‘virtual’ tour and now you just have to come and see for yourself!

Traveling is all what you make it – rain or shine.
With Hurricane Irene moving up the Eastern seaboard, it appeared unlikely she’d drop by Cape Breton Island – save an average rainfall and wind gusts.

There is always that element of a hurricane’s wild card ability to veer on a dime.

Hurricane Irene Party

To calm everyone’s uncertainty and lift the spirits of those who’s travel plans had been interrupted by the storm – we threw a “Hurricane Irene Blows By” party. A BBQ, White Russians, Bloody Caesars and some good old fashioned card games were lined up for the evening.

When a tropical storm is headed our way, the island bakes in a sunny, hot humidity – the kind of days that that makes you grateful our Cape Breton accommodation sits on the banks of the Bras d’Or Lakes!

After lunch, a few of us planned to cool off by hiking up Lewis Mountain, and jump in the invigorating fresh waters of the pools.  With Cookie Monster David {Germany} and Golfer Mike {NZ via British Colombia} we headed up the through the leafy green canopy along the babbling brook as the anticipated rain came. Nothing to do but embrace it.

Taking the cool down plunge

A magical quality surrounds the pools  – as gorgeous as they are on a sunny day, there is an equally enchanting quality on a rainy day. Rain drops bouncing off the water’s surface, a misty haze hanging high above the pool, the green leaves saturated with colour.  We couldn’t think of anything better than spending the afternoon vaulting off the rocks into the deep black pool below.  David made it clear when he said “This is way better than cookies!”

David’s an English/Geography teacher, {with a sweet tooth for cookies any shape or form} had actually dropped by our backpacker’s a few weeks ago when traveling with his siblings. Unfortunately, at full capacity that night, we were unable to accommodate them but suggested that they stop back in another night. Well – to my surprise – last week David arrived on a shuttle from Halifax and said ‘I’m back!’. He’s been maxing and relaxing with us for a week now before he heads to the PEI for some cycling fun.

Cookie Lover

Mike stopped in for one night which Irene turned into two. At the end of his year long working holiday in Canada, he was scheduled to fly to the UK …until  the storm interrupted his flight plan.  Forced to rebook his flights and spend one more day in Canada, pool jumping & barbecuing rather than being stuck at the YHZ airport.  We hope it was a Canadian send off for the memory bank

Kiwi Cool Down

Nicole had just finished a month long yoga retreat in Massachusetts, and she and her mom, Diane, cruised on up in a hot little convertible for some R&R before returning to their studies & teaching. Hurricane Irene delayed their return south of the border & we were happy to be their shelter from the storm. These two were the life of the party! Diane’s one adventurous lady! She even braved jumping into that pool. Could you ask for a cooler Mom to travel with?

Rain or Sunshine

Hungry after our leaps & bounds (and failed attempts at action videos), we returned home, relaxed and as the night crept upon us, we fired up the grill.  Laughter,  our hunger solved and our thirst quenched, and one memorable day for the books. That’s what rainy days on Cape Breton Island can be made of.

The Sunday Cliff Jumpers

"Irene's" Dinner

It never gets old seeing & hearing a traveler on a motorcycle describe their experience winding up those Cape Breton Highlands, curving around hairpin turns; mountains looming above on one hand, the sea roaring below on the other.

There is a reason why the Cabot Trail earns it’s keep on many a ‘World’s Best Motorcycle Rides’. So fire your baby up and hit the tarmac! The seaside is calling.

If you are planning a trip on your bike through our region check out Cabot Trail Biker providing info on the trail, what to expect, and debate on the age old question, ‘Clockwise or Counter -Clockwise?!’. We say both!

Jesse (L) and John (R) rode in on their Moto Guzzi Stelvo 1200 4V and BMW R1200 GS from Manhattan, NYC. These guys are stacked, they know what they are getting in to,  city slickers they are not. Seasoned riders, campers (and photographers!) they’ve prepped for this epic journey! And one must!
Their route will take them on some of the most remote roads Canada has to offer. There is something thrilling knowing they have left behind the security of the city & skyscrapers for an open taiga/boreal remote road. Their epic trip brings them up through New England, around the Cabot Trail, Newfoundland, through Labrador, down through Northern Quebec and ending in Montreal just in time for the Jazz festival.

For those of you fellow road warriors, this means riding he Trans-Labrador Hwy, the Route du Nord, the Trans-Taiga Rd and the James Bay Rd. To get a sense of this  raw adventure check out The James Bay Road Website.

Now, here’s a little side story. John, being good heartily mischievous, pokes down to see me at the office and tells me Jesse used to be a model. Now, as charismatic as Jesse was, I somehow couldn’t picture a Ford model being hard core enough to enter the vast northern country.  To John’s persistence,  we Google Jesse, and …. Up pops a handsome devil along side a young up and coming Kate Moss! Wowza!

So there you have it! Another day at the office, never knowing who will arrive, or where people have been or what they have done! That’s the beauty of an accommodation such as ours. You get to meet and chat with fellow travelers, finding inspiration in their journeys.

We host those who are thrilled to ride the Cabot Trail, but we are thrilled by the surprises they bring to us!

John and I have concluded that the best model in the Jesse & Kate ’11 photo (below) is hands down, the Guzzi Stelvio!                              XO! fr Salt Mountain

" Getting lucky in the game of Life "

Backpacking  is a family affair for Lesley, Mac & Sidney.
Ah, we can’t forget ‘Kitty’! Sidney’s trusty travel buddy (pictured center).

This is not a family weekend road trip;  this is an 8,000+ km adventure  of ambition!
Escaping a hot summer in the city, they fled Toronto early June , flying to St John’s, Newfoundland to embark upon their cross-Canada adventure. One can only imagine the events and memories that will have been carved by the finale. The island hopping in and around Haidi Gwaii, British Colombia the beginning of August is where there journey leads.

Buses & ferries will be the main mode of transportation. And if that is not challenging enough, Sidney is being home schooled by Mac while Lesley finishes the book she is writing!

You could say that traveling is in their bloodline. Lesley’s parents, one of English; the other of Irish origin, met years ago at a downtown Toronto backpackers while discovering Canada. They fell in love, and little did they know, their future grandson would be retracing their footprints!

They made Bear on the Lake their home base while exploring Cape Breton Island after Newfoundland. They chose to rent a car for two days in order to have the freedom and flexibility of driving the Cabot Trail and exploring the ins & outs of the island.

One of the nicest things to watch was Sidney’s discovery of our stash of board games. He became a fan of ‘Life’ , working it into the regular wake up & wind down routines.

You can’t help but smile and think about this metaphorically.
What a summer awaits him, discovering our country’s best kept secrets from coast to coast! Lesley & Mac are providing their son with the true game of life; one of love, discovery & adventure- together!

I hope they send us a postcard soon, when they reach their destination!

Stay tuned for an upcoming blog on traveling Cape Breton Island as a family and the benefits of staying at a backpackers guesthouse vs traditional accommodation.

XO from Salt Mtn

We’ve added a blog to our site and will use it to introduce you to our traveler of the week! Every week we meet amazing people from all over the world and this lets us tell the world all about them! Stay tuned!

*You make us feel right at home from the moment we walked through the door. Thankyou so much for an amazing stay. I didn;t want to leave, will definetly recommend this Cape Breton backpackers to friends! Good luck for the season!* ~` Denise – Ireland

*I won’t be forgetting the past few days in a hurry. The beautiful wiew, your kindness, good humour and company have made it a certainty that I will come back over the summer. See you again soon!* ~` Leanne

*You rocked our worlds. You made our trip huge! See you real soon!* ~` Kim & Sam, NZ

*Nice ‘home’ like feeling hostel!! The Salty Bear tour was great as well!* ~` Jellie

*Thankyou for the awesome place to stay. I had alot of fun here at this Cape Breton backpackers and all the first time Salty Bears of 2009!* ~` Ash, Ottawa

*This is the most fab place ever!I loved every minute here and I wish I’d never have to leave… I’ll be back!” “ Anne, Denmark

*Thanks for the welcome and the great company. ‘d tell anyone who’s thinking about Cape Breton to go for the Bear on the Lake hostel experience.* ~` Ruth

*This wasn’t like a hostel, more of a mate’s place. Many good times were had…
I heart Bannock!!!
I heart Bear on the Lake!!!
I heart Kat!!! *       ~` Remmy ->Australia

*This place is a breath of fresh air! we had a fantastic time! Agus go raibm mile maith Agat! Best of Luck!* ~`David/ Romould/Audrey

*Kat is the best friend you could ask for! This place is great! Thanks to Stef, FiFi, Heiko, Jenny, Kat, Yves, Conny & especially Dickhouse! till next time, Peace!* Ben M – Ottawa

*Never knew one could live on Bannock & Sangria only … I loved it here and maybe, maybe I’ll be back. Remember? You always meet twice!* ~` Steffi, who finally gets to go West!

*Kat, you’ve been a fantastic host. Had a fantastic stay. Beds were so comfortable. Hope you have a really busy summer. I’ll spread the word to my fellow travelers.* ~` Colin, Australia

*thanks for an awesome stay. We had the best time!! It was abslutely beautiful!! Loved it!! With love ~` Clement, Cyntia, Fiona & Annie

*What an amazing weekend! we’ll be back!* ~` The gang at CLLC

*Thanks for a warm & cozy place to rest my weary body for a rainy night.* ~` Alex Grove – cycle touring from Victoria, BC via Anchor Point Alaska to Cape Spear, Nfld.     —  hikerbiker.org —

*Thanks for making us feel so at home! This is a wonderful place and the warm atmosphere makes it awesome. We will always remember the Thanksgiving dinner here and hope that if we come back, to see you again! Have a great winter!* Anna & Phil

*Not so much a ‘hostel’ but a home! Good luck with the travels & I hope the 2009 season is as fabulous!* ~ Tessa, Sarah & Sue

*Great people! Loved my first hostel adventure!* ~` Belinda